How To Choose The Right Diamond Shape

radiant cut diamond engagement rings hatton garden

Welcome back to the Diamonds Hatton Garden blog where we bring you the latest insights from our Hatton Garden jewellers. Following on from our buying guides to various fancy cut diamond shapes, we look to continue with our educational themed blogs with today’s article about how to choose the right diamond cut and shape for you.

What is a diamond shape?

Diamonds are cut in a variety of beautiful shapes and the diamond cutter has the responsibility of choosing which shape that will preserve and maximise the carat weight, brilliance and sparkle of each diamond that can be produced from the rough. 

The most popular diamond cut or shape, by far, is the round brilliant which, interestingly, actually produces the most wastage. Other shapes, known as fancy shapes, tend to yield more from the rough and produce less waste which is important as part of the factors which determine the diamond’s value is the waste that is left from the rough. Popularity and availability are the other factors that determine the price of the diamond. Diamonds can be cut into a variety of shapes and the most popular shapes are as follows: Round, Princess, Cushion, Oval, Emerald, Pear, Marquise, Asscher, and Radiant shape. 

Whilst new shapes are being created these classic shapes have endured the test of time and are the most popular for diamond engagement rings and most diamond jewellery. Their ability to hold the natural beauty of the diamond whilst showcasing its unique characteristics is what makes these shapes the very best. 

The Importance of Choosing The Right Diamond For You

A diamond engagement ring not only only represents the love and bond between two people but can be an enduring heirloom that can be passed down through generations. Whether designing a bespoke diamond engagement ring or choosing a gorgeous, ready-to-wear mount, finding the right ring and diamond can be an exciting challenge.  Metals and mounts are one thing but most couples start by choosing the diamond that most appeals to them. One that perfectly captures their relationship and love. We share the most popular diamond cuts and look at how to choose the right one for you.

Round: STYLE: timeless, classic, sparkling

Centuries of diamond cutting and the refining of the shape have led us to the world’s most popular diamond shape: the round brilliant. Created out of the desire to produce as many facets as possible, the goal was to create a diamond that would sparkle like no other. With more facets and angles, the shape dominates the diamond market. 

Rounds are not just  the most popular shape for diamond engagement rings but also other types of diamond jewellery such as diamond earrings and diamond bracelets. With 58 facets divided among its crown (top), girdle (widest part) and pavilion (base), the angles are calibrated through a precise formula to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance. Over 70% of the world’s diamonds are Round Brilliants. Whilst there are many different types of cuts, this shape in particular has stood the test of time. In fact, it is hard to think of a diamond without this shape coming into our mind’s eye. Explore Round Brilliant diamond engagement rings. 

History of the Round Brilliant cut

Princess: STYLE: on trend, bold, feminine.

Square cut diamonds often have less sparkle than round cut diamonds but the Princess cut is famous for its incredible shine. Using up to 80% of the rough diamond, the shape is not only beautiful, but also better for the environment than most other diamond shapes.

Second to the round brilliant, the princess cut is the most popular square cut diamond. Due to its shape they tend to be better value. Unlike other shapes, the Princess cut has more of the diamond concentrated in its depth which maximises its brilliance. If you are choosing this cut, ensure that you have it set with 4 claws to protect its edges from chipping. In particular, this shape suits longer fingers and works very well in wedding bands.  Explore Princess shape diamond engagement rings

princess cut diamond engagement rings

Cushion: STYLE: romantic, graceful, sophisticated

Dating back to the 19th century, the cushion cut has seen a resurgence in popularity over the last decade. Whilst similar to a princess cut, what makes the cushion cut special is that it can be found in a number of ratios making it either square or rectangular. With its rounded corners (less susceptible to chipping) , it also works well for someone who has an active lifestyle.

With the energy and brightness of a round brilliant with the calming symmetry of the radiant cut, the romantic shape features 58 large facets and rounded, squared corners. These larger facets (it is also known as a pillow cut) mean that this diamond shape possesses strong brilliance. Whilst the shape can show inclusions and clarity ought to be high when buying, the cushion cut marries the brilliance of a round shape diamond with the charm and sophistication of a square shape.  Explore Cushion shape diamond engagement rings

Cushion cut diamond engagement rings london

Emerald: STYLE: Art-Deco, bold, glamorous

One of the very first diamond cuts, this historic shape became popular in the 1920’s and is most commonly associated with the bold, geometric lines of the art-deco movement. Popular for both diamonds and gemstones, it is important to choose a higher quality diamond that possesses excellent clarity as the large table on the crown can show inclusions more readily than other shapes.  Emerald shaped diamonds are well proportioned and ought to have excellent symmetry, 

Also known as “step cut” because of the layered faceting, the emerald cut possesses unique appeal with symmetrical sparkle. An Emerald cut diamond has 58 facets, roughly 25 on the crown, 25 on the pavilion, and 8 on the girdle with 3 rows of bottom steps and three rows of top steps.  Explore Emerald shape diamond engagement rings

emerald cut diamond engagement ring london

Radiant: STYLE: fiery, diva, provocative

With 70 faces, the Radiant cut is considered to be one of the top diamonds for sparkle and brilliance. Invented in 1977 by Henry Grossbard, the diamond cut was born out of the desire to combine the best aspects of the round cut with the best aspects of the emerald cut. 

This unique shape, whilst not as popular as other cuts, is an exceptional choice for those looking for something different. Versatile, it can be used in other types of diamond jewellery; the fiery stone fuses many appealing characteristics of other shapes. The Radiant cut is ideal for those who like the emerald shape but want the brilliance of a round diamond.  Explore Radiant shape diamond engagement rings

Radiant diamond engagement ring london

Asscher: STYLE: balanced, vintage, creative

Developed at the start of the 20th century, the Asscher cut is similar to the art-deco looks of the Emerald cut. With its gorgeous, sweeping curved edges and octagonal shape the style can be classified as modern vintage and works with a number of outfits, lifestyles and tastes. 

A step-cut diamond, the Asscher cut is a heady blend of the princess and emerald cuts with cross-shaped facets from its corners to its centre culet. With a unique facet arrangement, this shape can hide inclusions and mask lower colour grades. Balanced and modern, the  cut has a clean visual appeal. Asscher cuts are a popular shape that was developed during the Art Deco Period. Suggested Cut Ratio: 1.00 to 1.05 for square proportions. Explore Asscher shape diamond engagement rings

ASscher cut diamond engagement rings

Marquise: STYLE: dramatic, moving, joyful

Known as the football cut, boat cut, eye cut, or the navette cut – it is rumoured that In the mid 18th century King Louis XV of France commissioned his court jeweller to create a diamond cut to reflect the shape of the mouth of his mistress Marquise de Pompadour. It’s unique shape and look, whilst not the most popular, is a stunning choice for any bride-to-be. 

A variant of round and pear shaped diamonds, the oval-like shape perfectly complements long, slender fingers. What’s more, the cut and elongated body makes the diamond appear large due to the concentration of the mass in the crown.  It is an excellent cut to show the impression of long, slender fingers. Suggested Cut Ratio: 1.75 to 2.25 is the ideal shape. Explore Marquise shape diamond engagement rings

marquise cut diamond rings london

Pear: STYLE: contemporary, unique, gentle

Pear shaped diamonds have become increasingly popular over the last 5 years due to their gorgeous shape and exceptional value. A mixture between marquise and oval shaped diamond, this diamond sits incredibly well in a variety of mounts. A pear shaped diamond ring is unmistakable because the stone is in the shape of a teardrop with a slightly flatter and larger bottom with the rest of the diamond coming to a skinny point at the top of the stone.

Featuring 58 facets, light cascades through the diamond in a similar way to a round brilliant, which maximises sparkle. The teardrop shape of the pear cut creates a lasting impression and can be worn with the tip either facing the wearer or pointing down the finger. Pear shapes can be wide or longer with longer style pear cuts elongating the finger shape much like the marquise cut. We recommend always set the pear shape diamond with a prong covering the point of the stone to prevent any chipping. Explore Pear shape diamond engagement rings

Pear shaped diamond engagement ring london

Oval: STYLE: trendy, elegant, delicate

An elongated round brilliant shape, the oval diamond was created in the mid-1900’s. Appearing larger than a round brilliant, the cut is great value and timelessly trendy.  Adding elegance and style to any mount, the delicate round edges add a gentle contrast to any mount. When choosing an oval shaped diamond it is important to choose a higher grade colour as the rounded ends show the diamond colour more than other cuts.  Explore Oval shape diamond engagement rings

oval diamond engagement ring London

At Diamonds Hatton Garden our team of family-run jewellers have assisted generations of clients to find their perfect diamond engagement ring. Contact our team via harel@diamondshg.co.uk or call +44 7951 060238 for more information and to arrange your appointment. Alternatively, explore our selection of fancy coloured diamonds for sale and if you are looking to buy fancy Pink diamond jewellery contact our team as well as viewing our latest Diamond engagement rings in Hatton Garden.  Or contact our team to sell diamonds in London.