Welcome back to the Diamonds Hatton Garden blog where we bring you the latest from our family run team of Hatton Garden Jewellers. In the latest in our ongoing guides to fancy shaped diamonds we look at the art-deco inspired Asscher cut and give you all you need to know about buying an asscher diamond engagement ring. If you missed them, read our guides to cushion cut engagement rings, emerald cut engagement rings and find out more about our diamond engagement rings in Hatton Garden.
History of the Asscher diamond
The Asscher cut is one of the more recent of the diamond cuts and was invented by Joseph Asscher in 1902. Joseph Asscher was an artisan diamond cutter who founded the I.J Asscher Diamond Company which is now known as the Royal Asscher Diamond Company. Joseph Asscher also gained notoriety within diamond cutting as he was entrusted by the British Royal family to cut the magnificent Cullinan diamond that is now part of the crown jewels. What makes the cut unusual is that it was the first diamond cut to be patented which protected it from being produced and replicated by other companies. With its brilliant straight lines, the cut became popular as the diamond of choice for many art-deco items of jewellery.
Why choose an Asscher cut diamond?
It does without saying that the Asscher cut is a truly unique design that is certainly a showstopper. Asscher cut diamonds are ideal for those looking for a vintage style and square shape that is less vulnerable to chipping. The elongated, step-cut facets make for an attractive shape that captures hearts and imaginations. Before we look into the technical aspects of choosing an Asscher cut diamond, we have compiled a quick pros and cons of the cut below:
Pros
- Clean, elegant look.
- Unique shape produces large flashes due to long facets in the cut.
- Vintage appeal with art-deco, timeless style.
Cons
- Due to the unique shape, it can be more expensive than other cuts.
- Table cut – tends to show inclusions or blemishes more than other cuts.
- Less popular – the unique shape is not as popular as other cuts and it may be harder to find the appropriate diamond for you.
What is a step cut diamond?
A step cut diamond is usually a square or rectangular shape with facets arranged as parallel lines to one another on all four sides. The facets tend to be larger than in brilliant cut diamonds and because of their arrangement, they look like steps. If you ike the look of an asscher cut diamond engagement ring, we recommend looking at emerald cut diamond engagement rings too.
Recommended Cut & Proportions For Asscher Cut Diamonds
Unlike other diamonds, there is no GIA recommended cut or proportion for the asscher cut, however through careful research and guidance it is possible to find a visually appealing asscher cut diamond that conforms to industry recommended standards and ratios. With the asscher cut, the lower the table depth the better and we recommend a total depth of between 60% and 68%. With the brilliant cuts, the depth is much more important because it has a crucial impact on how well the light is refracted inside the diamond. Since Emerald & Asscher Cut Diamonds are step cuts, they don’t have this issue and do not require any built-up depth to maintain brilliance, you should go as low as possible in terms of depth. It is also to remember that a shallower diamond means a diamond that will look larger as more of the diamond is concentrated in the crown or table of the diamond. For Table Percentage, we recommend staying under 68%.
Our Cut Recommendations:
- Depth: 60% to 68% (under 65% is relatively hard to find)
- Table: 60% to 68%
- Polish/Symmetry: Good, Very Good, or Excellent
- Length/Width Ratio:
- Asscher: 1.00 to 1.05 is GIA’s acceptable range for defining a diamond as “square.”
Asscher Cut Diamond – Clarity – What to consider?
Much like the Emerald cut, the asscher cut is a cut where it is important to go for the very best clarity that you can afford. Due to the shape and large pavilion, the shape shows inclusions and blemishes more readily than other shapes like the round brilliant. When choosing an Asscher cut diamond engagement ring, we recommend choosing a clarity of VS2 and above. Any lower will risk the stone not being eye-clean.
Asscher Cut Diamond – Colour – What to consider?
Much like with Emerald cuts, it is important to be more aware of the colour you choose than you would have to be with say a round brilliant diamond engagement ring or princess cut diamond engagement rings. As the Asscher cut (like the Emerald Cut) is a step cut colour can be more noticeable because they are cut for their clarity and lustre – so nothing is hidden. Because of this, we recommend when buying an Emerald or Asscher cut that you buy a minimum of an H Colour.
It is important to remember, however, that if you are buying an Emerald or Asscher cut for an Asscher Cut Engagement Ring or an Emerald Cut Engagement Ring, then you need to make sure the colour of your centre diamond matches the colour of the side stones.
Asscher Cut Diamond Size Chart
At Diamonds Hatton Garden our team of family-run jewellers have assisted generations of clients to find their perfect Asscher cut diamond engagement ring. Contact our team via harel@diamondshg.co.uk or call +44 7951 060238 for more information and to arrange your appointment. Alternatively, explore our selection of fancy coloured yellow diamonds for sale and if you are looking to buy fancy Pink diamond jewellery contact our team as well as viewing our latest Diamond earrings in Hatton Garden.
Or contact our team to sell diamonds in London.