Welcome back to the Diamonds Hatton Garden blog where we share the latest developments and insights from our Hatton Garden jewellers. In today’s blog we continue our on-going diamond buying guide series examining the oval cut.
What is a diamond cut?
Before a diamond cutter chooses the specific cut of a diamond, they will analyse the rough diamond and note its unique inclusions and carat weight which impact the specific cut of the diamond. In most cases, a diamond will be octahedra, making it ideal for a round brilliant cut. Why is this? A rough diamond will be cut and polished into two faceted gems without it losing too much carat weight thus making the cutting more effective and wasting less of the rough. Therefore, a diamond cut determines the diamond’s fire, brilliance and scintillation levels; it’s the technical aspects used to maximise the diamond’s brilliance.
The History of the Oval Cut Diamond
Diamonds have, for centuries, have been cut in a wide variety of shapes – the oval shape being no exception. As technologies and understanding improved over the passing of time, shapes have become more refined as jewellers and cutters have discovered more complex methods to achieve a greater brilliance to the gemstone. Early diamond cuts were very much more basic than the cuts we know today and have, naturally, fallen out of favour. Whilst no exact date exists, the first record of an oval cut diamond can be noted from around 1304 and the oval shape can be found in beautiful paintings and artworks of the time. It wasn’t, however, until the Renaissance that cutters learned how to better facet diamonds to increase their scintillation. Since the development and popularisation of the oval brilliant, their light show is comparable to a round brilliant diamond.
It wasn’t until 1957 that the modern oval cut came into existence when Russian-born cutter Lazare Kaplan invented the stunning design. Hailing from an esteemed family of diamond cutters, Kaplan gained notoriety for his incredible skills in cleaving, a process in which cracked or badly flawed diamonds are cut into smaller, minimally included diamonds.Working on diamonds that were often discarded by other jewellers, his great ability allowed him to transform these so called “worthless” diamonds into some of the most valued diamonds at the time. Whilst talented, it wasn’t until the 50’s and his invention of the Modern Oval cut that he achieved wide-spread recognition which saw him inducted into the Jewelers International Hall of Fame.
Oval Cut Diamonds Pros & Cons:
Pros
- More affordable
- More sparkle
- Slimming effect on fingers
- Doesn’t catch or scratch
- Works with a variety of settings.
Cons
- Bow tie effect
- Can shows flaws
Recommended Cut & Proportions For Oval Cut Diamond
Much like heart shaped diamonds and many other diamond cuts, symmetry is crucial for oval cut diamond engagement rings. A well-proportioned oval cut should have a length-to-width ratio of between 1.25-1.50. Any cut below a ratio of 1.25 starts to look too round. Any cut over a ratio of 1.50 starts to look very narrow, like a marquise cut.
Oval Cut Diamond – Clarity – What to consider?
Due to the shape, inclusions and blemishes are well hidden with Oval Diamonds. Near the rounded end or where the jewellery setting will lay, it is almost impossible to see imperfections. An Oval Cut Diamond engagement rings provide excellent brilliance, durability and style. We recommend a clarity of SI1 or SI2 or above for this shape as, being a modified brilliant cut, the colour is more of a factor in how the diamond will sparkle more so than the colour.
Oval Cut Diamond – Colour – What to consider?
Due to being based on a brilliant cut, colour is one of the most important aspects to consider when choosing an oval cut diamond engagement ring. As a rule of thumb, we suggest a colour grade of H and above that ensures your diamond will look white in a variety of settings such as white gold or platinum. However, if you choose a rose gold or yellow gold setting then you can accommodate by either lowering to a J or K colour diamond or buying a larger stone.
Oval Cut Diamond Size Chart
At Diamonds Hatton Garden our team of family-run jewellers have assisted generations of clients to find their perfect oval cut diamond engagement ring. Contact our team via harel@diamondshg.co.uk or call +44 7951 060238 for more information and to arrange your appointment. Alternatively, explore our selection of fancy coloured diamonds for sale and if you are looking to buy fancy Pink diamond jewellery contact our team as well as viewing our latest Diamond engagement rings in Hatton Garden. Or contact our team to sell diamonds in London.